Once turning a vehicle for use with LED Turn Signal bulbs, it’s often not enough to just replace the even light bulbs with LED bulbs. In a lot of cases, you’ll have to either replace the automobile flasher module, or trick the flasher module into imagining that there are “even” bulbs in your car…
And here is why:
An LED bulb just consumes a very low amount of electric current. The turn signal flasher (if it is a steady “thermal” flasher) was designed for bulbs that take much power. The power consumed from the bulb runs through the flasher and warms up a bimetal switch. Once the bimetal deforms by the warmth, it breaks the circuit (causing your lamp to become off), these causes the switch to cool off and come back to its original form (it will put off the circuit again, the lighting comes on, the switch warms up, and the cycle gets started once again).
Whenever the amount of power moving though the switch is very brief, not enough warmth is generated in the flasher to get the bimetallic to bend. The basic symptom is that your turn signal lights just stay. Whenever you operate a MIX of regular and LED bulbs (say regular in the front, LED in the back up), you may not detect it but if your incandescent bulb breaks, you are back up to nothing-flashing. Some other symptoms are fast flasher, slow flashing or not coming on in the least.
There are generally two answers:
Set up Load Resistors: a resistor that wastes enough power to cause the stock flasher module to set in. Your flasher fundamentally does not know that you are running LED bulbs. This is generally the more big-ticket solution, makes a lot of more work, but in general undesirable. However, this may be what you have to do if you can’t find an LED-compatible flasher.
LED-Compatible Flasher: This will work on almost automobiles (and the older the car, the many likely), and generally means ripping out the stock flasher and putting in an LED-compatible replacement. Occasionally you may get to flip a few wires (and you can find harnesses to do that really facile). There are diverse different molds of LED compatible flashers, and there are also different types.
Finding the right MODEL: the LED-compatible flasher ought to have the equivalent number of prongs, pin-out and size/shape (square vs round) as your current flasher. Sometimes, LED compatible flashers have another wire come out of the best of the flasher, which only wants to be attached to the car’s ground.
Getting the correct TYPE: a few LED flashers will work just WITH LEDs and will come up in smoke when you set incandescent bulbs (or a mix of LED and incandescent) into your lights. Those flashers ought to be stayed-away from. There are as well SOLID STATE flashers, those do not utilize a relay, have a highly long life (because they do not have any mechanical parts), are many expensive and generally don’t make a clicking noise.
Hazard Flasher: a few cars have 2 flashers, one for hazard lights, and another to turn signals. They can or cannot be different models, but only you will have to replace both.
Flasher Lookup: CEC Industries have the flashers replace guide (Google: CEC Flasher Guide), you tap the year, brand and model of your automobile, and it will show you which flasher fits. The flashers it tells you can NOT be LED compatible, but you may tap the model numbers of the recommended flasher in their look, and it will show you whenever it’s LED compatible. If the suggested flasher isn’t LED-compatible, attempt the search again, adding the letter L or the letters RL. Whenever that even does not bring up a result, and if your present flasher is two-prong, you can try the generic round 2-prong LED compatible flasher, which is the EF32RL. Whenever your flasher is 3-prong (and among the prongs is the pilot light in your dash), so you can essay the generic 3-prong version, AKA EF33RL